Gently pull the cotton apart to a spider web. I can tell you get the good stuff, if there is such a thing, as good cotton and cheap cotton. If you can find these, they're what you want. The Raylon balls are supposed to be way better to use than cotton. Some cotton balls are made of cotton, and some are made of Raylon. I have no idea what cotton seeds look like, I can only assume mine did not have seeds. Installed the water effects: ships wake, bow explosion. As things get a bit more covered, 'll then manipulate the goopy cotton into splash like shapes just want to create a modest coating over 30% of the cotton. 'l'lI gently touch the medium onto the surface of the cotton. To do this, I will use a tiny brush and very small amounts of clear medium. Still have to coat my cotton especially near the bow with tiny touches of acrylic clear gloss medium to form a glassy net around the cotton. The Sub is not permanently mounted, for a little kit of about 20-30 pieces, it was a real pain !! not happy with it but it. once glossed it will have the same effect. just could not get the effect I was wanting. I gave up and my 3D idea the way i was doing it. I will drybrush them, white, blue, green. The white globs are liquitex gel medium gloss, to simulate white caps, it will dry transparent. Also dried brushed the wave Troughs with black. I highlighted the wave crests with the air brush, a very light sea foam color, that i mixed. brushed on Artist acrylic paint, Phtalo Turquoise, which is the perfect color I wanted to achieve without mixing greens and blues and black together. I used the same procedure as described earlier. I tried so many different combos on them they had too much paint on them. the color is actually more blue then the image suggest. this one shows the above steps 1-4 and just combining the acrylic paints. experimenting once again until i get the right combination.īelow is one of the foam blocks I used. Then dry brush the tops of the waves with white and blues. Also will form the wake of the ship the same way. Once dry I'll use gel medium and bits of cotton balls with varnish to form wave tops. Using acrylic paint ( mixing black, various blues, greens )experimenting to get the proper color for the sea.and one that I like. The images below are following steps 1-4 just waiting over night for the varnish to dry Step 4: Use the varnish to cover the foam board to get a smooth surface Step 3: sand the foam board smooth until all the ridges and bumps from using the lighter/ heat are smooth. Step 2: cutting out the area for your ship to sit in Step 1: using the lighter to make the waves and undulations Started all over after experimenting with small blocks of the foam board. Plus I found out that I have no idea how to paint with Artist oil paints. Once the varnish dried, on the first base, the paper seams on the pieces of paper used to cover the base were clearly visible. The submarine has been preserved as a museum of submarine history in Groton, Connecticut, where the vessel receives some 250,000 visitors a year. Nautilus was decommissioned in 1980 and designated a National Historic Landmark in 1982. This information was used to improve subsequent submarines. In operation, she revealed a number of limitations in her design and construction. Because her nuclear propulsion allowed her to remain submerged far longer than diesel-electric submarines, she broke many records in her first years of operation, and traveled to locations previously beyond the limits of submarines. Sharing names with Captain Nemo's fictional submarine in Jules Verne's Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea, and named after another USS Nautilus (SS-168) that served with distinction in World War II, Nautilus was authorized in 1951 and launched in 1954. The vessel was the first submarine to complete a submerged transit to the North Pole on 3 August 1958. USS Nautilus (SSN-571) was the world's first operational nuclear-powered submarine.
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